www.eztankless.com Jim of EZTANKLESS explains the recent advancements in Gas fired tankless technology.

I have well water and would like to install my water softener in the basement. This being said a water softener that does not use salt would be perfect. I am also looking into a tankless water heater. Does anyone have any opinon on the matter? Should I use all propane in my new house or electric or a mixture?

Tankless water heaters provide hot water when needed without a storage tank, which reduces standby heat loss and in turn saves money. Visit www.ToolBase.org for more information on this and other home building technologies.

I would like to compare natural gas to propane gas to electric water heaters in a way that is understandable to a lay person. I understand that heating water is one of the highest energy costs in a home but how would I compare the price of a tank to a tankless water heater?

I’m considering getting one for my upstairs aptmt. My two-flat has one 40-gallon water heater, and the upstairs tenants go through it quickly in the winter time. Not to mention I pay for all the heating it’s getting a bit prohibitive. I want to know how easy was the install and whether there was an appreciable difference in fuel consumption. Natural gas is my fuel of choice. Thanks!

I’m considering switching from our 50 gal hot water heater to a tankless. For those of you who have done this, how much did it cost and are you seeing savings on your gas bill? At our current usage, a 50 gal tank takes care of one load of dishs, two loads of laundry and two showers (10-15 minutes long) before we start to loose hot water.

Setting and adjusting the hot water heater thermostat is all about the gas valve, which lets gas in through the bottom burner. Learn about using a thermistor to help control the temperature of a hot water heater with help from a master plumber and heating specialist in this free video on hot water heater thermostats. Expert: Chris Spannagel Bio: Chris Spannagel has been a master plumber for 17 years and is licensed in Arizona. Filmmaker: Chuck Tyler

We have 100 amp service and natural gas. We want to convert to 200 amp all electric, with no natural gas. How much should we expect to pay, to get an electric tankless water heater, a heat pump, an electric central heater to supplement the heat pump, with central air conditioning from the heat pump, and a thermostat that switches between the heat pump and the electric heat according to outside temperature, plus the cost of converting from 100 amp to 200 amp? It can use existing forced-air ducts. This is for a three bedroom 1150 square foot house on a concrete slab, with an attic that’s only used for access and insulation. It’s in a place with average weather, i.e. it freezes a lot in the winter but only goes below 0 F once every few years, and gets hot and humid for a few weeks of the year, and only goes above 100 F about one day per year on average.

Besides the cost of the items mentioned above, can you also recommend brands, and the reasons for those brands?

So I just installed a Titan tankless water heater. I’m not a hippy tree-hugger, mind you. I just HATE sending money to National Fuel. In any event, it got me thinking that if the water used in my boiler system was heated through this mechanism, my fuel use would decrease to virtually zero. While my electricity costs would increase, the increase should be less than the 0.00 monthly gas bill (and that’s the balanced billing rate… yeah, I’m getting screwed, and that’s AFTER insalling 30 brand new double-pane argon filled windows).

Do “flash heating” boilers exist (whereby the water is heated instantly as it passes through a tankless water heater)? If so, do they offer savings over traditional natural gas boilers, enough to warrant the investment? Because I’m not really buying into the whole “your best energy value” thing… what a crock is sh1t that is.

I would love to hear what you have to say.

Thank you.

So I just installed a Titan tankless water heater. I’m not a hippy tree-hugger, mind you. I just HATE sending money to National Fuel. In any event, it got me thinking that if the water used in my boiler system was heated through this mechanism, my fuel use would decrease to virtually zero. While my electricity costs would increase, the increase should be less than the 0.00 monthly gas bill (and that’s the balanced billing rate… yeah, I’m getting screwed, and that’s AFTER insalling 30 brand new double-pane argon filled windows).

Do “flash heating” boilers exist (whereby the water is heated instantly as it passes through a tankless water heater)? If so, do they offer savings over traditional natural gas boilers, enough to warrant the investment? Because I’m not really buying into the whole “your best energy value” thing… what a crock is sh1t that is.

I would love to hear what you have to say.

Thank you.

E-mail me if you can. It’s gas. The problem is that it doesn’t stay running for very long. Sure we’re saving water and gas, but the "endless" hot water isn’t happening. Showers are as short as they were in the Navy. Which doesn’t work for my wife.

Not for the squeamish! Jim from EZtankless shows us why our hot (and cold) water may not be as clean as we think. All tankless water heaters need filters and/or softeners to operate correctly for the long term. Tankless heaters do not have the capacity to hold mineral and debris deposits. Regardless of what brand you buy, if the water is not filtered, your heater will eventually prematurely malfunction. www.eztankless.com

I am looking at purchasing a house that has a gas furnace that is about 7 or 8 years old and a gas water heater (not tankless). It has central air conditioning already. My question is how much might it cost to replace the water heater and furnace with both electric so that I don’t even have to have natural gas hooked up to my house? Also, is this worth it?

I recently bought a home that has a tankless hot water heater. I noticed that when i cut the water the unit cuts on lights, goes out and then reattempts to light again. Then it shows reading that says that there in not enough gas going to unit (gas company game out and said I was getting enough to the house). It actually cuts on, lights and then cuts off (saw it through viewing area). Is it possible that it is not getting enough gas even though it lights up initally? Also on it a noticed that it has a flexible pipe that connects to main gas line and to water heater. Is it possible that it is restricting the flow of gas to keep a flame in the unit?
I know that it sounds weird, but I was really wondering if this could be the problem. Thanks in Advance.

Hey there,

Im in the process of buying a new homes in manteca,ca. I have the option of getting a tankless water heater instead of a 50gal. water heater. They are both going to run on natural gas.
But I dont know how efficient they are and if they are actually going to save me any money on my bills?

ps: they are putting the tankless water heater in the attic if the option is purchased. Weird huh?

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How much do you really save? I mean if your Gas bill is 50 bucks per month how much will it be if you replace your water heater with a tankless water heater?

I’m thinking of buying a tank-less hot water heater for my whole house but i’ve read that the natural gas heaters don’t put out the flow that they advertise and it is best to go with an electric.I have a 40 gallon electric now that i bought 2 years ago.It is turned up all the way.I have never been able to take a 15 minute shower without using up all the hot water.I never had that problem with my old 40 gallon gas heater.Also my shower head plugs up with lime deposits so often that many times i cannot finish 1 shower without taking it apart and rinsing it out.The gas heater did that only 3 or 4 times a year.That makes me very reluctant to use another electric heater even a tank-less.I don’t want a water softener.I am willing to put up with cleaning the shower head 3 or 4 times a year.If anyone is using a tank-less now i would like to know what brand it is,how strong it is and how happy they are with it.Thanks!
The first 4 answers seem very knowledgable but it does not sound like you are using one in your home.I need an answer from someone who is actually using one.Do you like it? What size and brand is yours? Can you take a long,hot shower? Gas or electric? What about lime deposits? Thanks!

Our RUUD Pacemaker gas water heater lasted an astounding 17 or 18 years, but finally started leaking. I saw loads of complaints about Ruud/Rheem water heaters. It seems in about 1998 or 99 the quality went in the toilet so to speak. We are looking for another 40 gallon gas water heater. Who makes a decent one. I would go with a tankless, but I do not get final say, and I do not want to stay here in this area any longer than needed. Who makes a decent water heater?

I TOOK OUT MY OLD HOT WATER TANK AND PUT IN A NEW TITAN SCR2 ELECTRONIC TANKLESS WATER HEATER I GOT OFF EBAY

I’m wanting to replace my old water heater with a tankless system. My old water heater is full of sulphur deposits from my sulphur well so instead of buying another one I would rather sink my money into a tankless system.

It will have to be electric as we don’t have access to gas here.

So will a tankless system work ok with Sulphur Water. Of course we treat it with chlorine but it’s not always filters through carbon. Right now my filter is down.

Also, which tankless system is considered the best? Someone said it needs more electricity too.

Would I be better off to stay with a tank system for some reason?

What kind of total cost would I be looking at in Tennessee to have such a thing installed typically?

Any and all information relative to this would be greatly appreciated. Any helpful links to information is appreciated as well.

We have almost six kids, my hubby and I, and a 2400 square foot home…There are not too many reviews on this…Any thoughts? There are alot of times that I have the dishwasher, washing machine and the shower running at the same time…We right now have a gas 50 gal tank.. So, I dont know if this thing can keep up with us or not…Thanks

I have a mountain cabin which I get just occasional use (6 or 7 times a season) My water system uses a 400 gal holding tank which I carry water into from a local, public Artesian well, and use a pressure pump to provide water pressure to a kitchen sink, a bathroom sink & toilet and a naval shower (3 gal/minute with shut off at shower head) and a 10 gal hot water heater.

The problem is that the hot water heater seems to fail every 3 or 4 years. It has failed again and I am trying to figure out best solution. I am sure it is failing because it sets without use (turned off and drained between uses) In the past, I just replace with same, but now am thinking that it might be time to consider something different.

My question is if a tank-less unit might be the answer. using good spring water so not worried about hard water; no gas, just electric, longest run is about 15′ from heater closet to Kitchen, about 8′ to bathroom sink and 4′ to shower. Is this something I should consider? Have 110 outlet in closet, but would consider 220 if better. at rate I am going, tanks have cost me close to ,000 for a stupid 10 gal tank.

What is your experience and recommendation? Could there be something I can do to save the tank heater I have now? It is only 3 years old.

www.homeinspectioncarolina.com The typical water heater in Charlotte NC is usually a cylindrical tank with a heat source in or below the tank, used to heat entering cold water for supply of hot water to a home when needed. Most residential water heaters have a 40 to 50 gallon glass-lined steel tank (but can range up to 88 gallons). The heat source can be either gas (natural or propane), oil, electricity, solar or geothermal. The life expectancy of the average water heater is 8 to 12 years for gas and oil, 10-15 for electrical, solar and geothermal, and over 20 years on tankless (made of stainless steel). There are several different types of hot water systems used in the Charlotte NC, Gastonia NC, Weddington NC, Huntersville NC, Indian Trail NC including: Indirect water heater systems, dual purpose water heater systems, on-demand water heater systems (or tankless), high efficiency gas systems or direct vent systems. Indirect water heater systems use a boiler to heat the water. Dual purpose water heaters (also referred to as hedonic water heaters) use one of the heat types above and then store domestic hot water while circulating hot water through a heat exchanger connected to a forced air furnace. Home Inspection Carolina has inspectors that inspect all of these. On-demand water heaters (or tankless) only heat the water when there is a demand for it and they do not have a storage tank. Instant hot water heaters are small (1/2 gallon) and are located near the tap–a design …

I was told that the electric variety of tankless water heaters suck up a lot more juice than their propane/nat gas counterparts. The reason I am considering electric is that I don’t want an extensive installation – I just want to replace my old electric tank heater with a wall-mounted tankless one. Is it worth it?

we have 5 boys and a 3200 square foot house. we have 2 hot water heaters now and we have enough hot water for the whole house. We have no gas lines hooked up to our house. thanks

A review and demo of our Rinaai hot water heater. This podcast gives a brief explanation of how they work, their benefits, and how it can save you money. Check out our audio podcasts @ www.hofpodcast.com

So I came home today and a family member told me that they noticed the water in the kitchen never got hot as it usually did. I tried all other hot water sources, and all were cold. I went down to the basement and the hot water heater itself is cold, so all water inside is cold, too. It’s not on at all. It mysteriously seems to have turned itself off. It’s in about a 4 ft. x 15 ft. dugout crawlspace that the FHA made the former owners dig out and put cinderblocks around it. At one end, there is the sump pump and sump hole…at the other end is the heat/air machine (working just fine) and hot water end on the far end. The sump pump is working fine. I do not see any waterline on the water heater, so I have absolutely no reason to believe that water flooded it. I followed all re-light directions on the labels. I have no idea of the model or any of that. I do know it has an electric ignitor switch. I pressed down and held the "reset" switch and had the knob turned to "pilot"…while clicking the ignitor. It’s like no gas turns on at all, and when it was working properly, I remember a gas sound when the knob was turned and before pilot ignition.

What could be the issue? I know that absolutely no one has been down there turning off any gas knobs. It doesn’t appear to be related to water or flooding. I’m thinking it may be the ignition control box itself…but I don’t know a thing about any of that other than how to typically light it. The water heater is probably 6-7 years old. Is it a best bet to just get it replaced completely? It’s a muddy crawlspace, so they charge a fee for that crawlspace and it’s one of those 0 jobs for the water heater and install, if I remember correctly from last time.

I’m also wondering if there would be any way to get that converted to an electric, tankless water heater. It’s an old house…most of the piping is galvanized, though a lot of the gas piping seems to be copper. I’m not sure how much power would be needed in addition (or if our old circuit breaker could even handle that) for an electric tankless, or how much it would cost to get it installed by modifying the current setup. I just know that tank is a nightmare…and we hate the sump setup. It’s scary to think of the power going out and the hole filling with water since the pump can’t pump with no power.

Suggestions?
Also, I know there are battery powered pumps available as backups…but they always clog since it’s a dirt bottom. I’ve cemented most of it off, but dirt still finds a way to clog the smaller, less powerful battery powered backup pumps to the point of them not working.

We’re also planning on selling the place for what we can get for it within a few months or so (and hopefully get enough to pay off what’s left on the loan)…so it’s kind of one of those, "Why does this have to happen now?" things.
How do you figure out which thermocouple you need, even if you do remove it and bring it with you? Is there a part number to go by?

I have a 9 year old Bradford White gas water heater. It just started overflowing hot water and partially flooded my basement. Should I have someone out to try to fix it or should I just get a new one?

We have lots of minerals in our water.

If I get a new one, are there any available that are less prone to breaking due to high mineral content?

Are the tankless water heaters worth the extra money?
Got a pressure relief valve from Lowes; installed it; all is well now. Thanks to all of you for your help. When the tank does go, I will get a good tankless system.